Eger August 28-31
August 28 and 29 White Wine Tasting
I am going to divide my Eger visit into two separate posts:
-
White wine tasting
-
Red wine tasting including Bikavar –and that’s
no bull!
(Note: before I lose track, I tasted 16 wines in Tokaj)
I arrived at my guesthouse in Eger, obviously in the Eger
wine region about noon. My destination
to taste wine was The Valley of the Beautiful Women. By the way, nobody knows for sure how it got
its name.
There are a series of caves excavated from the rock totaling
about 150 or so. However most are locked
and looked abandoned. See photo below.
There are about 40 however clustered together and open for
wine tasting/sales. Each winery has its
own cave. The winery name is posted at
the entrance to the cave. For example
the winery Toth Ferenc is in cave 46. The
photo below shows the entrances to several caves which includes Ferenc (good
wines).
You go into one of the caves, look the menu of wines that
particular winery has available for tasting and make your selection. Wines are usually sold by the glass. Since my goal was to taste a considerable
number I asked for only a sip of each.
I picked a cave at random and sampled four white wines, all 2015
vintage. The cave shall remain nameless
(also numberless since each cave has a number as well.) Each wine was harsh, acid, basically yucky. I mean really bad.
I sought solace in food from the restaurant Kulac’s
nearby. It had been recommended by my
guesthouse host as offering outstanding examples of Hungarian fare. How right he was (in fact I would wind up
eating lunch there for each of the three days of wine tasting in the ‘Valley’).
The outdoor terrace sits under an enormous grape arbor
replete with hanging clusters of grapes, almost ripe at this time of year.
Huge portions are served as you can see from the photo below
which shows venison chops smothered in a ragout of goose liver, and dilled
mushrooms. Delicious and the heavy food
definitely induced a late afternoon nap.
I spent that night doing considerable research on wineries
represented in the ‘Valley’. The first
day I really paid the price just selecting a cave at random.
This day I went armed with knowledge of better Hungarian
Wine Producers who occupy some of the caves.
As the song goes “What a Difference a Day Makes”.
Here are my tasting notes:
Kokut Borhazsi Winery
Jozef Hagaymasi
Cave 19
Tasted four white wines:
Hagymasi Pince 2013
Nose of melon and other fruits. Lovely bouquet.
Taste apples and melon.
No acid. Pleasant aftertaste.
Ice Wine 2011
Not much of a bouquet
Taste semi sweet.
Pleasant on the palate. Very good
dessert wine.
Csillag
Faint bouquet
Mineral taste, no acid.
Good drinkable wine
Tasted another very good white but lost my notes.
See photo below for cave interior.
This is a very small winery. They will not likely export any of their
wines. I can only say that I enjoyed
these so much that I am tempted to return next year and do a more extensive
tasting!
Sandor Pince
Cave 31
I was only tasting white wines today. Sandor
only had two available.
Leanyka 2015
Pale straw color
Nose of fermenting grape must
Taste innocuous.
Slight fizz on the tongue aftertaste (usually caused by malolactic
fermentation)
Muscat 2015
Alcohol nose
Very faint floral for a muscat. Interesting hint of rosemary.
Taste semi sweet dry a little off putting finish.
To be fair, they are known for their reds (which I did
not have time to taste the next day)
Sike Tamas Winery
Cave 43
Valami Feher Cuvee 2013
Pale color, no detectable nose
Not a great finish, slightly tart
Egri Csillag 2014
Slight straw color
Faint barnyard nose
Taste slightly dry with a little acidity
Fizz on the tongue
Chardonnay 2011
Pale straw color
Most delicate nose of any Chardonnay I can remember
Taste incredibly rounded, delightful on the palate, bit
of an acid chalky aftertaste.
Egerszolati Olaszrizling 2009
(not to be confused with a German Risling grape)
15% alcohol
Oaked
nose strawberries, citrusy
taste semi dry, no acid, progression of melon to citrus
finish slightly mineral
nice residual flavor left in the mouth
Olaszrizling 2012
13% alcohol
Golden color
Nose slight linden flower
Taste- first a bouquet of roses going to a medley of
flowers in the background.
A nice complex wine.
At least four different layers of taste unfolded one after the other as
the wine reached the back of the palate.
Very clean feeling in the mouth. Very slightly acid.
So, 11 white wines in the ‘Valley’ bring my tasting total
to 27 counting the ones I samples in Tokaj.
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